It’s been a while since I last posted about my home. Exterior work continues…north and west siding is complete and I’ve started work on the back yard or east side of the home which requires removal of a deck and sliding patio door, replace three windows, installing the water resistive barrier (WRB) with rain screen and re-side. I am also planning on extending the roof eave to move the rain drip line further from the foundation. More than enough weekend work for the summer. First pic was taken right before I purchased the home.
Selection and installation of peel-and-stick flashing membranes used on building exteriors. Peel and stick flashing tape: this article describes the selection and installation of peel-and-stick flashing membranes used on building exteriors to seal housewrap joints and to seal against air or water leaks around windows, doors, or other openings. Apply a bead of caulk to the felt and set the window in the caulk. Next comes another layer of building wrap, installed like the first layer. At the top, tuck metal drip-cap flashing under the siding and on top of the second layer of wrap. Install the trim just under the drip cap. Install Blueskin per dia-gram, leaving release paper on back side of Blueskin, place paper side against sheathing and attach by stapling or nailing along top edge. Window Rough Opening Flashing Guidelines 2. Cut Blueskin the width of window rough opening plus 6″. Align per diagram. Remove release paper and adhere. For additional attachment.
There are three different siding types on this side of the home. The original asbestos lap siding, from 1952 is on the second story dormer sides, a wood batten and board type around the back entry door, which I believe was installed around 2000, and vinyl siding which was installed around 2017. Series of unfortunate events movie. I removed the sliding patio door late last fall so I could finish the master bedroom closet.
Cut a piece of 8-inch-wide aluminum flashing to length using aviation snips; you could also slice through it with a sharp utility knife. Measure for the leading edge of the flashing to determine how far it'll hang down in front of the window trim. I changed out my rotten wood framed windows for all vinyl ones. The original wall was aluminum siding. I fixed the rotten sheathing, applied house wrap. Then strapped (furred) the wall with plywood. The pictures show how I flashed the rough window openings. I did NOT want flanged windows because I did not want to have to disturb the siding when the window needs to be replaced in the future.
The windows were delayed a couple weeks so I installed the Henry Blueskin around the old window units with the plan to cut the Blueskin and replace pieces when the new windows arrived. I’m not replacing the door, it’s in good enough shape but will eventually add a new storm door.
The subject of this post is the challenge of installing a new window when using both a self-adhered WRB and vented rain screen. The home is sheathed with board sheathing, which is the one of the reasons I had such a poor blower door test, around 12 ACH50. I am hoping to greatly increase the home’s comfort and efficiency. Air sealing is a big part of the master plan and sealing all the gaps and cracks from the board sheathing is one of the steps.
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The self adhered Blueskin will seal the face of the board sheathing, but where the boards are cut for the window openings, there’s the potential for lots of air movement. Normally I would just extend the Blueskin membrane into the window jamb rough framing. Because of the window delay, the Blueskin was cut around the old window. Removal of the window left what you see in the picture above. What I decided to do was add a piece of flashing tape around the sides, top and bottom. I needed to add a little additional framing to slightly decrease the window rough opening to fit the new window. I also pitched the sill a few degrees to allow any water that should enter the around the window to drain outwards.
I was given a sample of Siga’s Wigluv which was used for the air sealing. If you’re not familiar with Wigluv, it’s one of the high quality European tapes being sold in North America, a very impressive tape to work with. It’s air and water tight but still can allow outward drying if needed. One of the few tapes available with a perm rating. After taping the edges and framing joints, I added the 3/8 inch fir strips as window bucks to extend the window plane so it’s even with the vented rain screen fir strips. I then cut narrow pieces of Blueskin and wrapped over the buck and into the sides of the window opening.
The top of the window will be addressed later. The bottom was flashed with Henry’s FortiFlash Butyl flexible window flashing. A product similar to Tyvek’s FlexWrap.
Next was to install the window. I placed a bead of Henry’s Crystal Clear Sealant around the top and sides of the window opening (not the bottom) and then installed the window as recommended by the manufacturer.
The windows themselves are from a local manufacturer called Walsh Windows, manufactured in Duluth, MN. These casement windows are made from uPVC or unplasticized-poly vinyl chloride which is an improvement over the older PVC type windows. I ordered a slightly upgraded window with better performing glass which decreased the window’s U-factor to .26, giving the window a total of R-3.85. Not great, but better than most code minimum windows being installed which are U-.3 or R-3.33. Read more about windows here. Another thing I like about the Walsh Windows is they have a 100% sash replacement, no questions asked. I installed these windows in a customer’s home several years ago, he later broke a window while mowing lawn. They sent a new sash free of charge. How many window companies offer that?
The next step was to install Henry’s butyl flashing tape designed for sealing the window to the Blueskin. Taping the two sides and head are standard details for most WRB’s. Never tape the bottom window flange. This must remain open to allow any water that should leak into the window assembly a place to drain out.
Best practice recommends installing an additional metal head flashing at the top of the window and then wrapping the WRB over the flashing.
This detail becomes more complicated when using a self-adhered WRB. Henry’s instructions are to install the head flashing before the butyl tape, a bead of the Crystal Clear Sealant would then be applied at the top of the top butyl flashing tape. I’m not a fan of relying on a caulk or sealant to keep water out of exterior assemblies. I instead added a second layer of Blueskin over the head flashing and extended the WRB up to the roof eave.
I have heard the saying, “There are two types of windows, one’s that leak and the one’s that will leak.” I have confidence that this install is in the “will leak” category, hopefully far into the future.
Last pic shows the final prep, installing the remaining 3/8 stripping used for the vented rain screen. Will have a short post showing the finished East side sometime this fall.
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Peel and stick flashing tape or membrane questions & answers:
Frequently-asked questions and answers about how to buy, install & detail stick-on flashing tape around windows & doors.
This article series describes the selection and installation of peel-and-stick flashing membranes used on building exteriors to seal housewrap joints and to seal against air or water leaks around windows, doors, or other openings. Our photo at page top shows Typar® flashing tape installed above a new window. A better practice laps the housewrap over rather than under the stick-on flashing tape, a better detail but one omitted by many builders.
We also provide a MASTER INDEX to this topic, or you can try the page top or bottom SEARCH BOX as a quick way to find information you need.
Using Building Flashing Membranes - Peel & Stick Flashing Tape
Question: 'blue skin' for trailer roofs
(May 11, 2014) alex said:
can you put blue skin on a travel trailer roof and paint over with rubber paint
Reply:
Alex I'm not sure what the blue skin product is (name and product name would allow some research. But certainly there are a number of roof-over materials for leaky trailer roofs, including rubber coatings. Without a membrane these may not be a lasting repair.
What I would not try is simply rolling out a self-adhering flashing membrane on your trailer's roof - don't use a product that was not designed to be left exposed to the weather. It won't endure. Realtek 8821ae driver windows 10 asus chromebook.
Question: flashing membranes adherence to old masonry chimneys
(July 28, 2014) Jean said:
Can peel and stick flashing membranes be used on masonry (old chimney) or only on wood decking?
Reply:
Jean,
Some of the flashing membrane product lines listed above such as FortiFlash® include products designed to adhere to cleand dry masonry.
Unfortuntately, too-often I have not seen good adhesion of a peel-and-stick flashing membrane along a masonry surface such as an older, rough-surfaced masonry brick or block chimney. And these membranes are not intended to be left exposed to the weather. Further, even if it adhered, you'd need counterflashing over the upper edge of the membrane to assure a durable installation.
Question: peel-and-stick membranes in roof valleys
(Aug 12, 2014) Donald said:
Can peal and stick membranes be used on steel roof valleys?
Reply:
Donald, the flashing tapes we describe here are expected to be covered by a finish material. These membranes do add valuable leak-insurance used beneath a finsish-material placed in a roof valley.
Question: will flashing tapes seal around a screw
(Aug 31, 2014) Gary said:
Will Flashing Tapes and membranes self seal around a screw, particularly the screw that holds the exterior finish (i.e. Siding) on to the substrate?
Reply:
Gary
Henry Blueskin Sa Flashing
Great question. My answer is yes .. and sometimes no.
How To Install Blueskin Window Flashing Tool
Peel-and-stick membranes are intended to seal around small-diameter penetrants such as staples and roofing nails. Where I've seen leaks through a P&S membrane on a roof they were traced to a mis-hammered roofing nail that folded over and whose head made a significant cut in the membrane.
I've also come across a few tears in flashing membranes that were subjected to twisting forces from a screw as it penetrated the material, in particular if the flashing material was not itself thoroughly bonded to the substrate surface.
Where I've seen leaks over doors and windows that were traced to flashing tape troubles the issue was either failure of the tape to bond to an older weathered surface or to someone having driven a 16d nail through the material.
And of course no flashing tape on a building wall, say over a window, is going to be able to prevent leaks that run down behind the housewrap from some leak point higher on the building.
Question: Blueskin SA compatable for a tie-in with a 2-ply hot asphalt vapour retarder
(Sept 3, 2014) Leo said:
Is Blueskin SA compatable for a tie-in with a 2-ply hot asphalt vapour retarder on a flat roof transition?
Reply:
Blueskin SA is an SBS-modified self-adhering membrane made of SBS rubberized asphalt compound that has been laminated onto a blue polyethylene reinforcing film.
Blueskin is produced by the Henry Company, 999 North Sepulveda Blvd., Suite 800 El Segundo, CA 90245 310-955-9200. Contact the company at E-mail: [email protected] Phone: 800-486-1278
The material is designed to bond or 'stick to' prepared concrete, concrete block, primed steeol, mill-finished aluminum (remove any oils), anodized aluminum, galvanized metal, gypsum board and plywood.
The material (as well as others of this type) is not designed to bond to a hot asphalt-sealed surface.
Question:
(Oct 7, 2014) Anonymous said:
We will be pouring a large 70' patio with stamped concrete. What type of flashing should be used when connecting new concrete landings to the house wood frame support? The landings are both 12' wide where they connect to the house and will allow entry into two 8 foot wide doorwalls.
Reply:
Please take a look at DECK FLASHING
Question: how to remove flashing membranes from concrete
11/06/2014 Steve said:
I bet this isn't asked often. Once you apply Fortiflash to concrete, how do you get the stuff off. We removed an old shed that was sealed to the concrete driveway with this stuff, and outside of grinding it off, we haven't had any luck.
![Blueskin Blueskin](/uploads/1/1/8/2/118271966/506840879.jpg)
Reply:
Steve,
Removing a well-adhered flashing membrane such as FortiFlash can be difficult on any surface. At least on concrete you could heat it gently to try peeling it off but I'd bet that the result will leave black residue on the concrete surface.
For other readers, FortiFlash(R) is a waterproof flashing membrane produced by Fortifiber Building Systems Group (R), a Fernley NV USA company. The product is a self-adhesive membrane reinforced by high-density polyethylene film that the manufacturer also refers to as “rubberized asphalt” and is described more technically as “a self-sealing SBS modified asphalt core laminated to a cross-laminated high-density polyethylene film reinforcement with a siliconized paper release sheet.”
It’s possible that the installer used Fortiflash 40(r) for floors - a vapor retarder system that can be adhered to concrete. It looks as if the composition of that product is similar.
As such if you can physically peel off the reinforced sheet you might use an organic solvent on the remaining modified asphalt adhesive. The company’s literature points out that the product is not compatible with EPDM (Rubber roofing), flexible PVC products and some sealants - but I don’t find much help from those products when considering how to remove FortiFlash membranes.
My best advice would is to contact the company directly for advice on the safest and most effective solvent to use.
Contact Fortifiber Building Systems at
1-800-773-4777 for sales and technical assistance. Website: www.fortifiber.com
Question: how to remove peel and stick flashing tape or membranes
(Nov 6, 2014) Steve said:
I bet this isn't asked often. Once you apply fortiflash to concrete, how do you get the stuff off. We removed an old shed that was sealed to the concrete driveway with this stuff, and outside of grinding it off, we haven't had any luck.
I bet this isn't asked often. Once you apply fortiflash to concrete, how do you get the stuff off. We removed an old shed that was sealed to the concrete driveway with this stuff, and outside of grinding it off, we haven't had any luck.
Reply:
Steve,
Removing a well-adhered flashing membrane such as FortiFlash can be difficult on any surface. At least on concrete you could heat it gently to try peeling it off but I'd bet that the result will leave black residue on the concrete surface.
For other readers, FortiFlash(R) is a waterproof flashing membrane produced by Fortifiber Building Systems Group (R), a Fernley NV USA company. The product is a self-adhesive membrane reinforced by high-density polyethylene film that the manufacturer also refers to as “rubberized asphalt” and is described more technically as “a self-sealing SBS modified asphalt core laminated to a cross-laminated high-density polyethylene film reinforcement with a siliconized paper release sheet.”
It’s possible that the installer used Fortiflash 40(r) for floors - a vapor retarder system that can be adhered to concrete. It looks as if the composition of that product is similar.
As such if you can physically peel off the reinforced sheet you might use an organic solvent on the remaining modified asphalt adhesive. The company’s literature points out that the product is not compatible with EPDM (Rubber roofing), flexible PVC products and some sealants - but I don’t find much help from those products when considering how to remove FortiFlash membranes.
My best advice would is to contact the company directly for advice on the safest and most effective solvent to use.
Contact Fortifiber Building Systems at
1-800-773-4777 for sales and technical assistance. Website: www.fortifiber.com
Question: builder left out flashing membrane now I have a leak
![Flashing Flashing](/uploads/1/1/8/2/118271966/923819501.jpg)
(Nov 7, 2014) Steve K. said:
I have an leak that is giving me an immense headache. My builder talked me into creating a storage room under my front porch. Because the porch large exposed to the weather, I instructed him to install a waterproof membrane under the concrete slab and to lap it under the Tyvek membrane on the house's exterior.
I have an leak that is giving me an immense headache. My builder talked me into creating a storage room under my front porch. Because the porch large exposed to the weather, I instructed him to install a waterproof membrane under the concrete slab and to lap it under the Tyvek membrane on the house's exterior.
He forgot that detail, and I did not discover the mistake until the house was completed. The porch is poured concrete over a metal pan. The exterior structure consisted of OSB (all seams taped), one inch of Dow blue foam (all seams taped), Commercial D housewrap, 1x4 pressure treated strapping, and then cement siding.
When it rains, the most exposed portion of the porch leaks into the storm room, wetting the framing and introducing water into my very tight house. (The builder is MIA at this point.) I looked around for solutions but not found one. Taking off some of the siding, cutting back to the sheathing, and installing some flashing over the OSB and concrete seems like the best option, but I am not knowledgeable enough about building materials to know for sure.
Reply:
Steve
I am not sure I've got the details clearly in mind for the case you describe. Use our CONTACT link found at page top or bottom to send me photos and a sketch if you can and I might make more sense of this leak problem.
I'm a bit worried that flashing that terminates under ground and runs up under building siding risks giving an attractive pathway for termites (if you've got those critters in your area)
And I'm unclear on how the storage room is open to or protected from the weather.
So pending a better understanding I can just offer a very general comment that flashing is expected both to keep water out of a construction intersection of planes and to direct water out onto an exposed surface where it can drain away without causing trouble.
Question:
(July 30, 2015) daren said:
if i was to use this tape in conjunction with liquid rubber, how would the rubber adhere to the tape?
would it be better to rubber the seam and the apply tape..followed by rubber
if i was to use this tape in conjunction with liquid rubber, how would the rubber adhere to the tape?
would it be better to rubber the seam and the apply tape..followed by rubber
Reply:
That's not an application I've seen described by the flashing tape manufacturer. I am doubtful that liquid rubber or any other adhesive will bond well to what I think is a super-smooth polyethylene type or mylar type covering left on the exposed side of the flashing tape. It might adhere to a metallic covering used on some tapes.
Question: is it wrong to use flashing tape underneath a window or door
Pat said:
Can someone please clarify this issue? Most everywhere I've read about window flashing tape, it states to never apply it to the bottom of the window on the outside so water can exit to the house wrap instead of under the house wrap.
Can someone please clarify this issue? Most everywhere I've read about window flashing tape, it states to never apply it to the bottom of the window on the outside so water can exit to the house wrap instead of under the house wrap.
My siding crew taped the bottom of the window like shown in this article but I'm less worried about it because there's an open flap of house wrap below the window where water can eventually exit. Also, I insisted on a rain screen and the house wrap should let water escape so it should get stuck inside. Either way, I don't think taping the bottom is hardly ever recommended.
Reply: no but it must be installed before the window or door is set in place.
Pat: You're quite correct. The photo showing peel and stick flashing tape applied over the window bottom flange and onto the building WRP or housewrap is not a recommended detail and might trap water in the window rough opening. Please see complete details at WINDOW & DOOR FLASHING TAPE DETAILS - separate article
What is the best way to flash around windows & doors and how should flashing tape be used at these openings? This article series shows best practices, common practices, and some not-so-good practices using peel-and stick flashing tape around windows, doors, and other building wall penetrations.
Article Series Contents
- PEEL & STICK FLASHING MEMBRANES
- WINDOW & DOOR FLASHING TAPE DETAILS - separate article
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- Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction, by Steven Bliss. John Wiley & Sons, 2006. ISBN-10: 0471648361, ISBN-13: 978-0471648369, Hardcover: 320 pages, available from Amazon.com and also Wiley.com. See our book review of this publication.
- Eric Galow, Galow Homes, Lagrangeville, NY. Mr. Galow can be reached by email: [email protected] or by telephone: 914-474-6613. Mr. Galow specializes in residential construction including both new homes and repairs, renovations, and additions.
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- Decks and Porches, the JLC Guide to, Best Practices for Outdoor Spaces, Steve Bliss (Editor), The Journal of Light Construction, Williston VT, 2010 ISBN 10: 1-928580-42-4, ISBN 13: 978-1-928580-42-3, available from Amazon.com
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